Why does garlic rot in the garden.

A number of visual signs can help the gardener understand why, while still sitting in the garden, the garlic begins to rot, and then, as soon as possible, take measures to save the harvest. In the article, you will learn about the causes of garlic rotting, which can provoke this ailment, as well as about methods of combating the disease.

Rot factors.

Among the most common reasons for the appearance of rot are only a few, including: pathogenic fungi; bacteria; infections; pests.

And one of the most important preventive measures is crop rotation. Crop rotation prevents the growth of pathogens or insect pests that usually attack a particular garden crop. Garlic, for example, is recommended to be planted in its former place only after 4-5 years. And among its best predecessors are cruciferous vegetables and cucumbers.

Adherence to agricultural practices also reduces the risk of diseases and pests affecting garlic.

The area for growing garlic should be well lit and located on a hill. Garlic, and especially the one planted before winter, does not tolerate stagnant moisture very well. In the spring, during the melting of the snow, the ground is already too wet, and if the site is in a lowland, then the likelihood of rot on the garlic is high. To avoid spoiling the garlic, you can try to equip a high bed in the fall. In this case, moisture will not linger at least in the upper layers of the soil.

Autumn cleaning of the beds must be carried out carefully, without leaving any plant residues, as well as digging up the soil annually. Many pathogenic microorganisms, as well as insect pests, winter well on the remains of plants remaining in the soil, and in the spring they move to immature seedlings, affecting them.

Attention should be paid to the preparation of planting material. First, you need to ensure thorough drying and proper storage of the garlic that you are going to plant. Optimum temperature, in case of long-term storage of garlic, is + 1 ... + 2 degrees. Bulbs keep well in linen bags or containers with holes for air ventilation. Also, experts recommend updating the planting material from time to time. Despite the fact that garlic itself has bactericidal and fungicidal properties, it is better to treat it with preparations designed to combat fungal diseases before planting.

In addition, it is necessary to monitor the quality of the soil, ensuring it is loosened and fertilized, and regularly feed garlic, since a strong and strong plant can more easily cope with diseases and pests.

Causative agents of fungal diseases.

Pathogens are the main cause of garlic rot.

Infection of vegetable crops with fungal diseases is facilitated by irregular care of plants, as well as temperature fluctuations, accompanied by prolonged precipitation.

In order to prevent infection of crops with pathogenic fungi, in addition to directly planting material and soil, it is advised to treat it with fungicides. The most common of them include Fitosporin, Maxim, and HOM.

Among the fungal diseases that affect garden crops, Fusarium is quite common.

To activate this microorganism, high humidity of air and soil, as well as more or less warm weather (+ 12 ... + 20 degrees) are sufficient. Fusarium quickly infects the plant.Infection, as a rule, occurs through damage on the planting material. This can be both mechanical damage caused to the bulb or cloves during harvesting or during planting, and traces of the presence of various insect pests.

Signs of fusarium infection are wilting of the plant and yellowing of the tips of the leaves. Sometimes, brown stripes also appear on the leaves, and a pinkish bloom can be seen in the axils. When trying to pull garlic out of the ground, you can do it easily, because the roots, in this case, rot quickly. The mycelium covers the bottom of the bulb. Its traces can also be found between the teeth.

Having found such signs, it is necessary to destroy the affected plants, temporarily reduce watering, regardless of the weather, and treat with fungicides.

The signs of fusarium are similar to another disease - white rot, which is also caused by a pathogenic fungus. Rot damage also begins with yellowing of the tips of the leaves, which soon covers the entire leaf of the garlic. Traces of mycelium may be present at the bottom of the bulb. And in appearance, the garlic becomes watery.

The measures taken are similar to those indicated above. However, in both cases, timeliness of detection and processing is important. Only under such conditions can one hope to preserve at least part of the harvest.

Peronosporosis or downy mildew is also not uncommon and not only on garlic. At the same time, for its rapid spread, only high humidity is enough, this pathogenic microorganism feels good in cool weather, already at +7 degrees. And in conditions of frequent fogs and prolonged rains, it is able to destroy most of the crop. With the onset of heat, its development slows down. Peronosporosis is not difficult to detect already at the initial stage, because the plant affected by it begins to become covered with oval spots of yellowish color. At high humidity, a light purple bloom, formed by spores, becomes visible on the leaves. Then the feather begins to curl and fall off. Then the infection passes to the bulb, starting putrefactive processes. At this stage, the likelihood of saving the plant is not great.

This pathogenic microorganism overwinters well in the ground on plant debris or planting material.

We also use fungicides to fight infections. Quite effective drugs include Ridomil Gold, Areva Gold VG, and Quadris.

Another fungal disease worth mentioning is bacterial rot.

The main cause of bacterial rot damage to garlic is damage by insects - pests. Spots and streaks appear on teeth infected with rot. The pulp becomes transparent, loses its hardness characteristic of garlic, an unpleasant rotten smell appears.

This infection is dangerous because the garlic finally decays already during storage. At the same time, the external signs of the disease can be seen only by opening the bulb.

In this case, the primary role is given to preventive measures. So, it is necessary to carry out activities aimed at combating insect pests. In autumn, clean the beds, carefully removing all plant residues. When feeding garlic, apply phosphorus-containing fertilizers.

Insects are pests of garlic.

The defeat of garlic insect pests no less provokes the appearance of rot than fungal infections.

Irregular care of plants, non-observance of the rules of crop rotation, contribute to the reproduction of pests and lead to the loss of part of the crop.

One of the biggest "lovers" of garlic is the onion fly. This pest is able to overwinter in the soil at a depth of only 15-20 cm. In the spring, the insect gets out and after a couple of weeks lays eggs in garlic beds. After 7 days, the larvae hatch, the "diet" of which will be only one garlic pulp.Insects penetrate the bulb through the bottom, eating it from the inside. By the way, the onion fly still more often attacks onions, and on garlic and even leeks, it is less common.

In one season, up to 3 generations of this pest appear. The spread of onion flies is facilitated by the increased humidity of the air and soil, which are characteristic of rainy summers.

The feathers of garlic affected by a fly begin to turn yellow, and after a while they curl and dry out completely. The bulb itself, with the appearance of larvae in it, begins to rot.

To prevent the appearance of this pest, the soil should be dug every season, moreover, deep enough. You can mulch the beds with peat. However, you should not be too zealous with it, since peat acidifies the soil.

From the third decade of April to mid-July, it is advised to dust the beds with a dry mixture composed of tobacco dust, ground pepper and ash. From the same components, you can prepare a soil spray by dissolving 250 grams of tobacco dust and 3 teaspoons of red ground pepper in 3 liters of hot water. The resulting mixture is infused for a couple of days in a warm room, and then, diluted in 10 liters of water, adding two tablespoons of liquid soap. Spraying is carried out once a week, starting from the last days of April.

Another dangerous insect that infects onions and garlic is the onion root mite. It is especially active in high humidity and warm weather (+ 24 ... + 26 degrees). This pest, like the onion fly, reproduces by larvae. However, if one fly, at a time, is able to lay no more than 60 eggs, then the fertility of the tick is more than twice as high. In addition, a month after the larvae hatch, they also become capable of reproduction.

The insect is easily carried by the wind, and also moves independently. The pest overwinters in the soil, on plant residues of onion and garlic crops, or in stored bulbs.

After the tick nibbles the bottom of the bulb, rotting begins. Infected plants turn yellow, and when the bulbs break, brown spots can be observed - traces of the presence of a tick.

If a pest is identified, the beds are treated with insecticides, for example, Rogor or Keltan. The harvested crop should be dried for about a week at a temperature not lower than +30 degrees. And if you are going to use garlic as a planting material, then before planting, you can process the cloves by placing them in a solution of colloidal sulfur for a few minutes.

The most dangerous pest for garlic is the stem nematode. This insect actively spreads in conditions of high humidity and cool weather. The nematode feeds on both garlic pulp and juicy stem scales.

The insect hibernates, like other pests, in the soil, on plant debris.

First, the nematode strikes the bulb, eating up the bottom, then the stem. The plant lags behind the ground and quickly decays. The garlic stops growing, light stripes appear on the feathers, and soon the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry quickly.
Garlic affected by a nematode easily breaks out of the soil, and an unpleasant rotten smell emanates from the bulb.

In addition to the above measures for controlling insect pests, in the case of a nematode, it is necessary to ensure the looseness of the soil by adding sawdust, straw or peat. It is also recommended to plant green manures on the affected areas, subsequently, digging up the soil well.

Thus, any external changes in garlic cannot be ignored. Only timely detection of diseases and pests of garlic will help save the harvest.